Shima Kanko Hotel is a resort hotel in Ise-Shima Kashikojima where you can spend a wonderful time outside of the ordinary.

Abalone and turban shells so heavy they're difficult to lift with both hands.

The small market is bustling with activity as female divers carrying abalone and turban shells come and go one after another. They quickly sort the shells into baskets and drag them along to be measured. "Bring me lots, you!" "You too!" are the voices of the female divers all around. And they all seem happy. I've only been here for a few minutes, but I've probably encountered around 20 female divers. As soon as they receive their receipts, they move on. Otherwise, there would be a traffic jam of female divers here.

Boarding a ship from the port

The female divers of Wagu work 50 to 60 days a year, twice a day, in the morning and afternoon. They take a boat to a nearby uninhabited island around 10 a.m. and dive for an hour to an hour and a half. The set diving time is to prevent overfishing, manage resources, and consider the physical condition of the female divers. When they return, they light a fire in the divers' hut and warm their chilled bodies. As one of them enters the hut after changing out of her wetsuit, she says, "Ah, I'm tired," and the three female divers inside laugh. They have their lunch in the hut, and their snack is roasted Hayato sweet potato. Dried Hayato sweet potato is a local Shima food called "kinko." It's a pleasant time chatting. But still, working free diving in the sea... haven't they ever been in danger?
"When I was younger, I used to dive to great depths, and even when I was out of breath, if I spotted an abalone, I'd push myself to keep going. That's when the last meter back to the boat became really tough."
It must have been difficult balancing being a female diver and raising children, wasn't it?
"Being a female diver is the best way to raise children. After all, you're the CEO of the company," she said, and the other female divers laughed.

The descendants of Oben, the legendary female diver who is said to have offered abalone to Princess Yamatohime, still live in Kunisaki. I toured Kunisaki with our head chef, Higuchi.
The beach in front of the Ise Jingu Goryo Awabi Choseisho (Ise Grand Shrine Abalone Preparation Center), where dried abalone is prepared for offering to Ise Grand Shrine, is full of seaweed.

A female diver's wetsuit

As I walked down the narrow alleys of the fishing village towards the Amakazukime Shrine, where the legendary female diver "Oben" is enshrined, I encountered a female diver. Female divers who catch abalone have rules in place in each fishing village to prevent overfishing and ensure the continuation of abalone fishing. In Kunisaki, I learned that each family with fishing rights is provided with one wetsuit, and they are required to wear it while fishing, thus managing resources such as abalone. The "Sustainable Development Goals" (SDGs, see P7) have been a hot topic in recent years, but female divers have been practicing them for a long time.

*The Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) were adopted at the UN Summit in September 2015 and are goals set by 193 UN member states to be achieved over a 15-year period from 2016 to 2030. The SDGs consist of 17 goals, including "End poverty and achieve zero hunger." One of these goals is "Conserve and sustainably use the oceans, seas and marine resources."

Ama-Sennyo Shrine

We arrived at Ama-Sennyo Shrine. This shrine is believed to offer protection against sea monsters called Tomokazukime and dizziness while diving, and is visited not only by female divers but also by divers these days. Also, every year on July 1st, dancers from Ise Grand Shrine visit and perform sacred dances.

Sunset over Kunisaki Fishing Port

After leaving the shrine, we headed to Kunisaki Fishing Port. By the time we finished our interview, there was a beautiful sunset. Mr. Higuchi, what did you think of your tour of the fishing village?
"This area is rich in seaweed. It's a rich sea nurtured by the ria coastline and other features. The abalone that feed on this seaweed are delicious, and I've come to realize again, by actually seeing and learning about them here, that the seaweed they eat is a perfect match for the abalone." This is an ancient cycle where people cherish nature, which in turn produces the finest ingredients, and these ingredients support the region. Such an environment still remains on the Shima Peninsula, which boasts a beautiful, quintessential Japanese landscape.

Abalone Steak with Brown Butter Sauce

<Abalone Steak with Beurre Noisette Sauce>
One of the dishes that has expanded the culinary possibilities hidden in this region is "abalone steak." The abalone is so tender that it cuts through with a knife, and its delicious flavor lingers on the tongue. When the fragrant aroma of browned butter spreads in your mouth, you realize, "This is the taste that made Shima Kanko Hotel famous."
The abalone steak, created in the 1950s, was perfected in its current form by the previous head chef, who was passionate about sharing the treasure of Ise-Shima—abalone—with the world through the power of cuisine. Inspired by Japanese cooking techniques, the abalone is simmered with daikon radish to achieve its exquisite tenderness. The spirit of local gastronomy, which conveys the richness of Ise-Shima's cuisine, is still preserved and nurtured as a tradition.

Steamed abalone with seaweed, served with a seaweed-flavored jus sauce.

<Steamed abalone with seaweed, served with a seaweed-flavored jus sauce>
As I brought the abalone to my mouth, the aroma of the sea wafted gently. Closing my eyes, the beautiful scenery of the fishing villages I had visited came to mind. I truly felt, "Ah, I am now savoring the nature of Ise-Shima." The abalone, which grows by feeding on seaweed, is steamed together with seaweed. For the abalone, it is a fateful combination. While maintaining the traditional preparation method, steaming makes the texture even more tender.

Cold sea urchin soup

<Chilled sea urchin soup>
I took a sip of the soup made with sea urchin from Kiinagashima. This is the kind of taste that makes you addicted.
A rich, chilled soup made with spiny lobster consommé jelly, sea urchin, and tomatoes. Topped with sea urchin, which is in season during the summer. The richness of the sea urchin and the aroma of the spiny lobster are addictive. The restaurant connects with producers not only in Ise-Shima but also mainly in Mie Prefecture, sourcing high-quality ingredients with minimal waste to create its menu.
This is Ms. Higuchi's new take on "French cuisine featuring seafood," looking towards the future.