Rias Coast〈vol.2〉
Tradition and innovation are the essence of change in local areas.
From Shima Time Spring 2019 issue
We visited the second factory of Kyumasa, a bonito flake shop in Nakiri, Shima City, which was founded in 1897. The fourth-generation president, Masakichi Hashizume, revived the traditional hand-fired method of making bonito flakes, which had once died out at his company, seven years ago.
Using a deep, 4-meter-deep, hand-fired stove, the bonito is smoked using far-infrared radiation.
President Hashizume (left) explains that Ubame oak has a dense grain, is heavy, and produces strong heat, making it ideal for making fragrant katsuobushi (dried bonito flakes).
A steamer basket sized to be handled by one person. A sliding mechanism improves work efficiency.
For example, the steamer used to smoke the bonito flakes was large and required two people to operate, but they have miniaturized it so that one person can handle it, thus addressing the labor shortage. In terms of raw material procurement, they purchase bonito from Shima that has been caught in excess of the amount that will be shipped, thus supporting local fishermen economically. Looking ahead, Mr. Hashizume says he wants to develop products with long-established soy sauce and kelp companies in Ise-Shima, and collaborate with raw bonito flake producers to create new manufacturing and distribution systems so that the region can become a brand.
"Tradition is what makes innovation enjoyable. I find it rewarding when I can identify what needs to be changed while respecting the fact that there are things that shouldn't be changed."
I felt that when people who preserve tradition while embracing innovation connect with each other, the community moves forward.
Dried bonito flakes, a traditional delicacy from the land of imperial food.
Also located in Namikiri is Katsuo no Tenpaku (Maruten Co., Ltd.), a long-established Namikiri bonito shop that has been passed down through generations, although there are no official records of its founding. The smoking shed tours, which are held in between work, are so popular that people come from overseas. President Yukiaki Tenpaku gave us a tour of the traditional hand-fired method of making katsuobushi. The hand-fired method is a traditional method in which bonito, which has been filleted into three pieces, is smoked over an open fire for about a month using ubame oak, which grows naturally on the ria coast, as fuel. It is a laborious process, requiring repeated changes of the steamers in which the bonito are arranged to adjust the heat, but it is a smoking method in which not a single bit of the bonito is wasted.
"It is important to create products that do not let the wisdom of our predecessors fade away. There are various theories, but it is said that Namikiri is the root of katsuobushi (dried bonito flakes), so I consider it to be the origin of Traditional Japanese culture."
A ranking list of bonito flakes from the Edo period. The name of the referee is Shima Namikiri-bushi.
The Engishiki, a legal text from the early Heian period, describes Shima Province as a "Miketsukuni" (a province that supplied food to the imperial court), and even today, Tenpaku continues to offer bonito flakes every year to the Kannamesai, the most important annual event at Ise Grand Shrine.
Chef Tsukahara (left), head of Traditional Japanese, and President Tenpaku (right) discuss dashi (Japanese soup stock) while sampling the dishes.
Chef Tsukahara, head of Traditional Japanese cuisine, exchanged opinions with President Tenpaku regarding the bonito flakes used at the hotel. He said, "Dashi (broth) is fundamental to Japanese cuisine. It's where a chef's skill is put to the test, so we are very particular about bonito flakes. The taste changes depending on the part and thickness, so we use different types depending on the dish."
"By sharing the katsuobushi culture that has been passed down in Namikiri, I hope people will come here and learn about the taste and history of katsuobushi made using traditional methods, not mass production," Tenpaku said, expressing his hopes.
Ise-Shima charcoal protects the forest.
The Ise-Shima Binchotan charcoal used in the hotel's restaurant is produced in the rich forests of the Shima Peninsula, where the raw material, Ubame oak, grows naturally. We visited Shinji Sato of Sato Charcoal Works (Hamajima, Shima City), a craftsman who produces charcoal while tending to these forests and protecting the environment of the coastal region.
"Binchotan charcoal is famously produced in Hyuga, Tosa, and Kishu, right? The common thread is that these are all bonito-producing regions. It's due to the influence of the warm Kuroshio Current. The raw material, Ubame oak, grows slowly, so it has no annual rings, and it's so heavy that it sinks even in seawater, making it ideal for binchotan charcoal because it burns for a long time," says Mr. Sato. Ise-Shima charcoal is trusted by fuel wholesalers who supply charcoal to eel and yakitori restaurants all over the country. This day happened to be the day the charcoal was being taken out of the kiln, and we were given a special opportunity to see the process.
"The charcoal-making process only accounts for about 10% of the overall process. In fact, the most difficult and time-consuming part is cutting down the trees in the forest, transporting them here, and splitting them. Using 6 tons of Ubame oak, we only get 900 kilograms of Binchotan charcoal."
The cut wood is placed in a kiln and fired up, carbonizing it over about a week. Next, the kiln's opening is gradually closed to reduce the amount of air, depending on the progress of the carbonization. For charcoal used for barbecues, the process ends here, but for Binchotan charcoal, the skill comes into play from this point. Over about 40 hours, the kiln's opening is gradually opened again. Air is introduced into the kiln, and the charcoal is burned at a high temperature. This process, called "nerashi," determines the quality of Binchotan charcoal.
"I sleep for an hour, wake up, and repeat this process to check the kiln." Once the soaking is complete, the next step is to remove the charcoal from the kiln. If you remove it all at once, it will become soft binchotan charcoal that doesn't burn well, so you have to repeatedly remove it to the kiln opening, wait, and then cover the removed charcoal with burnt soil to slowly extinguish the fire. The whole process, from removing the charcoal to the end, takes a full 10 hours.
However, according to Mr. Sato, in recent years, there has been a surge in damage to large Japanese evergreen oak trees caused by bark beetles.
"The only option is to cut down trees that have been damaged by insects." Sato warns that in order to stop insect damage, regular logging is necessary to regenerate the satoyama (traditional rural landscape).
This time, focusing our coverage on the ria coast of Shima, Executive Chef Higuchi said the following:
"The natural cycle and history of the mountains, villages, and sea—diverse life forms thrive there, and culture flourishes. We, who live in Shima, hope that by engaging with these things through cooking, we can contribute to preserving and passing them on."
The ria coast of Shima, formed over vast periods of time, offers a glimpse into the grandeur of the Earth and the local culture and human activities that coexist with nature.
Ise-Shima Binchotan charcoal and Spanish mackerel from Mie Prefecture
In Ise Bay, where water rich in mountain nutrients flows from the Kiso Three Rivers and the clear Miyagawa River, anchovies and other fish thrive, and Spanish mackerel that feed on them are caught. Fatty Spanish mackerel is cooked slowly at 44 degrees Celsius for 40 minutes, resulting in tender, plump flesh. Finally, it is seared over Ise-Shima binchotan charcoal, which produces a strong flame, and the fat that drips onto the charcoal turns into smoke, enveloping it in an even more fragrant flavor.
This dish features a vibrant sauce made from chrysanthemum greens that bloom in spring, and a refreshing tang from a seasonal citrus sauce from Mie Prefecture. In the forests of Ago-Bay, ubame oak trees that become binchotan charcoal grow; in Ise Bay, nutrient-rich water from the forest nourishes the fish; and in the sun-drenched villages, the warm climate carried by the Kuroshio Current cultivates citrus fruits—a dish that truly embodies the cycle of nature.
< French Restaurant “La Mer” À la carte menu for April and May 2019>
Bonito broth from Shima and Matsusaka beef
Seared Matsusaka beef sirloin and binchotan charcoal-grilled thigh meat, served with bonito-flavored espuma. ¥12,000
Matsusaka beef thigh, seared over Ise-Shima binchotan charcoal to enhance its aroma, is served with a sauce made by infusing beef consommé with the fragrance of bonito flakes, adding browned butter, and finishing it lightly with espuma. The bonito flakes, with their clean taste and rich aroma, enhance the flavor. The bonito broth provides a robust flavor and a fragrant aroma. This is Ise-Shima Gastronomy, a fusion of the umami of local Japanese ingredients and "French cuisine with seafood."
< French Restaurant “La Mer” À la carte menu for April and May 2019>
Traditional Japanese and Ise-Shima charcoal
Spring Grilled Dishes ¥5,500
"As a chef from Ise-Shima, I feel a sense of joy knowing that even the ingredients and the charcoal used for fuel are locally sourced," says Hamayu, head chef of Traditional Japanese, describing the spring dishes at Hamayu. By grilling the Matsusaka beef fillet over Ise-Shima binchotan charcoal made from ubame oak, the meat juices are locked in, allowing you to enjoy a melt-in-your-mouth texture and unique flavor. The splendid alfonsino is smoked by the fat that drips onto the charcoal, giving it a fragrant aroma, and the seasonal bamboo shoots also become an exceptional dish with outstanding flavor.
< Japanese Restaurant “Hamayu” Spring 2019 A La Carte Menu>
Seared bonito ¥3,200
Seared bonito, like straw-grilled bonito, becomes even more fragrant and appetizing when seared over binchotan charcoal. The first bonito of the season, from late March to around June, is characterized by its vibrant red flesh and strong, authentic bonito flavor.
< Japanese Restaurant “Hamayu” Spring 2019 A La Carte Menu>
Traditional Japanese and bonito flakes from Shima
Braised cherry snapper
Ise-Shima soup
Furthermore, for simmered dishes, we use a thoroughly simmered second broth that allows you to fully enjoy the original flavor of the dashi. Cherry blossom sea bream, which is in season in spring, and seasonal vegetables are paired with minced shrimp made from kuruma prawns. This creates a deep flavor where the umami of the ingredients overlaps. Enjoy the taste of a chef who carries on Traditional Japanese culture, using ingredients from Mie Prefecture that herald the arrival of spring and bonito flakes from Shima.
< Japanese Restaurant “Hamayu” March-May 2019 - at the Umashikuni Kaiseki Course>
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Shima Kanko Hotel quarterly magazine "Shima Time"
As the seasons change, Shima Kanko Hotel quarterly magazine, "Shima Time," introduces the four seasons of Ise-Shima through the local culture and abundant nature.
