Shima Peninsula's spiny lobster and the future
Ise lobster is deeply rooted in daily life in this major production area.
From Shima Time Winter 2022 issue
Mie Prefecture boasts the highest spiny lobster catch in Japan, with approximately 40% of it being caught in Shima City. We visited Wagu Fishing Port in Shima City, a major production area, and the Mie Prefectural Fisheries Research Institute, which has been researching spiny lobsters for 92 years, along with Executive Chef Higuchi, Executive Chef Traditional Japanese of Japanese Cuisine, Chef Kurino, and Chef Sommelier Sugihara.
There, one glimmer of hope remained, representing the struggles of people striving to ensure the future of local industries.
Check on Google Maps (Wagu Fishing Port)
Check on Google Maps (Mie Prefectural Fisheries Research Institute)
Ise lobster is deeply rooted in daily life in this major production area.
Wagu in Shima City faces both Ago-Bay and the outer bay where spiny lobster fishing takes place. Wagu Fishing Port is one of the largest in the prefecture, with a thriving fishing industry that also handles fish other than spiny lobster.
In Wagu, there are currently 22 businesses engaged in spiny lobster fishing. Spiny lobster fishing involves setting out in the afternoon the day before, while it is still light, and deploying nets in shallow fishing grounds centered around rocky reefs about 10 minutes away by boat. This fishing method, called "gillnet fishing," involves sinking nets with lead weights attached into the rocky areas where spiny lobsters live, and the lobsters that move around at night in search of food get caught in the nets.
A spiny lobster caught in a shrimp net
Fishing begins at dawn the following day, and the nets, each measuring approximately 120 meters in length, are slowly pulled up to avoid injuring the spiny lobsters. A single boat can only set a maximum of nine nets, and fishing ends when the nets are pulled up from the set point.
Upon returning to port, the nets are unloaded one after another from the ships and transported on carts to the net handling area.
The process of removing a spiny lobster from a net.
The spiny lobsters caught in the nets are carefully removed by hand using special tools to prevent their legs and antennae from coming off. Because it is a time-consuming and laborious process, the whole family participates in handling the nets. Sometimes neighbors even come to help.
What does spiny lobster fishing mean to the people of Wagu?
The fisherman smiled and said, "When the spiny lobster fishing season opens, the town comes alive. Of course, it makes us happy." A family member who was clearing the nets also spoke calmly, saying, "The quantity is less than before, but we look forward to seeing everyone in the community and clearing the nets together. It's a part of our lives."
A scene of sorting spiny lobsters at the market.
The spiny lobsters are sorted by size at the adjacent market and then auctioned off. There are "fishery adjustment regulations" set by Mie Prefecture for spiny lobster fishing, which prohibit the catching of spiny lobsters weighing less than approximately 70 grams.
In Wagu, they have established even stricter standards as their own rules, and they are working to protect resources by releasing spiny lobsters weighing less than 110g back into the sea.
Adapting to the changing times, the fishermen's tireless efforts continue.
The spiny lobster fisherman explained that the quality of his nets is a testament to his skill, as he makes them himself. "Occasionally, we catch some really big lobsters. About ten years ago, we caught a pair of spiny lobsters weighing 2.5 kg each. Their legs were thicker than a human finger. They must have lived a long time because they ate plenty of food." Everyone listening looked amazed.
Apparently, spiny lobsters weighing around 200g are the tastiest and fetch the best prices.
Head chef Tsukahara of the Traditional Japanese department said, "The reason why the spiny lobsters from the Shima Peninsula don't shrink much when cooked is because they are fed a good diet and have firm flesh."
In Wagu, a unique system called the "pool system" has been in place since the 1970s. A dedicated area for joint spiny lobster fishing is established, and each fishing family brings two nets, and they fish together on five boats.
The proceeds from the spiny lobster catch are also distributed fairly. The efforts to protect the spiny lobster population by not overfishing and to ensure stable fishing operations have attracted global attention. In Mie Prefecture, for over 40 years, fishing has been prohibited from May to the end of September (September 15th in some areas) when spiny lobsters spawn, in order to protect the resource.
However, the amount of spiny lobster has been decreasing nationwide over the past three to four years, and it seems that Wagu is no exception. Rising seawater temperatures are cited as one of the reasons for this. "When the water temperature rises, seaweed decreases, and so do the crustaceans and shellfish that serve as food for spiny lobsters," says Chef Kurino.
Mr. Ogawa said, "For us, spiny lobster fishing is our livelihood, our life, and the pride of the hometown where we were born and raised. So there's no point in hanging our heads. We all have to think together, come up with ways to catch them, and work hard while controlling the quantity. I think this is an era where we shouldn't just seek profit, but determine the optimal amount to catch. And I want to pass on spiny lobster fishing to the next generation."
Chef Sommelier Sugihara said, "I was once again impressed by everyone's efforts to persevere while accepting the changes in the natural environment."
We will continue to explore possibilities for the future.
We went to the Mie Prefectural Fisheries Research Institute in Hamajima-cho, Shima City.
This facility, which has been conducting research since 1930, successfully achieved the world's first artificial rearing of spiny lobster larvae from eggs in 1988. Currently, research is being conducted on mass rearing of larvae.
Spiny lobsters hatch from eggs and are called larvae when they are about 1.5 mm long, and then they spend a year growing into juvenile shrimp about 2 cm long. Researcher Shinji Tanaka said, "In artificial rearing, the challenge was that there was a shortage of food such as shellfish during the period when the larvae were growing the most."
Therefore, the research institute is conducting experiments to artificially control the spawning period of adult shrimp so that their growth coincides with a time when food is abundant. "Even if we can raise a large number of juvenile shrimp, there is a new problem that they will not grow due to lack of food if seaweed beds are reduced due to coastal barrenness after being released into the sea. However, it is believed that the large meander of the Kuroshio Current, which is thought to be affecting the marine environment, will eventually subside."
While explaining the materials, Mr. Tanaka carefully stated, "We know that when seawater temperatures rise, the activity period of fish species that feed on seaweed lengthens, and damage caused by feeding increases."
The research institute is also simultaneously conducting research on protecting some of the seaweed from being eaten by grazing by covering it with nets, and then allowing the remaining seaweed to reproduce and restore the marine environment when the seawater temperature drops.
Furthermore, the research institute measures the number of wild spiny lobster larvae that return to the sea off Shima every day.
"By analyzing those figures, we can predict the amount of spiny lobsters that will be ready to eat in two to three years. We believe it is the role of fisheries researchers to use this information to plan fishing operations and contribute to the environment and the lives of local communities."
Executive Chef Higuchi said, "Shortly after joining the company, I had the opportunity to learn about spiny lobsters at this research institute."
Even back then, I heard that there were many mysteries surrounding the ecology of spiny lobsters and that they were difficult to raise, but after hearing about it today, I felt the efforts and hope of the researchers as they steadily make progress."
A deep connection to the local community and pride in being a major producer of spiny lobster are driving us forward into the future.
| Executive Chef Hiroe Higuchi | In 2014, she became the head chef of Shima Kanko Hotel, and in 2016, she was in charge of the working dinner at the Ise-Shima Summit. In 2017, she became the first woman and the first person from Mie Prefecture to receive the Bronze Award in the Cuisine Masters Award Awards program of the Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries. |
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| Traditional Japanese executive chef Kyoji Tsukahara | In 1987, he trained at the Japanese restaurants "Miyako" and "Uemachi" at the Miyako Hotel Osaka(now the Sheraton Miyako Hotel Osaka ). In 2016, he was involved in providing Traditional Japanese cuisine at the Ise-Shima Summit. In 2019, he was appointed Executive Chef of the Traditional Japanese at the Shima Kanko Hotel . |
| Chef Sommelier Masahiko Sugihara | He has won numerous awards, including being a semi-finalist in the 2011 All Japan Best Sommelier Competition. At the Ise-Shima Summit, he was a member of the Japanese Wine Selection Committee and in charge of beverage service. |
| Lian Yamabuki Head Chef Masaya Kurino | In 2020, he became head chef of Shima Kanko Hotel Teppanyaki Yamabuki. Using his extensive on-site experience, he serves teppanyaki that allows you to enjoy conversation at the counter and a sense of realism. |
Winter cuisine brought to you by Executive Chef Hiroe Higuchi's cooking story
Lobster Villeroy style
We have poured our gratitude into this product for the spiny lobster, nurtured by the natural environment of the ria coast of the Shima Peninsula and delivered with the hard work and pride of local fishermen.
Sauce Villeroy is made with a white sauce base. This time, to highlight the star ingredient, the spiny lobster, we've added a rich American sauce with a strong lobster flavor and aromatic vegetables. The surface of the raw spiny lobster is coated with Villeroy sauce, shaped, and then battered and deep-fried. The crispy texture of the fried batter, the hot and creamy sauce, and the semi-raw spiny lobster create a delightful combination of flavors and a surprising taste sensation.
It is available as part of the "Degustation" course (¥32,200) from December to January.
*Depending on stock availability, we may not be able to fulfill your order on certain days.
Spiny Lobster with American Sauce
The "Ise Lobster with American Sauce," conceived by the previous head chef Takahashi, who held the culinary philosophy of "freshness through cooking, and nature through transformation," is one of the hotel's signature dishes. The commitment to cooking live Ise lobsters only after an order is placed remains unchanged.
The rich American sauce is made by simmering the heads, shells, and prawns of spiny lobster with aromatic vegetables and tomatoes, then finishing it with brandy and white wine. In this dish, a hollandaise sauce made with egg yolks and butter, and whipped cream are added to the sauce, which is then generously poured over lightly boiled spiny lobster that has been split lengthwise, along with cheese, and baked in a top-heated oven until golden brown. The fragrant sauce and the flavor of the lobster meat make this a masterpiece that further enhances the appeal of spiny lobster. The symmetrically arranged spiny lobster incorporates the traditional aesthetic beauty of shrines and temples in Japan. Please enjoy this dish, which can be said to be the origin of Ise-Shima Gastronomy.
Lobster with American Sauce ¥10,300
| French Restaurant “La Mer” | the BAY SUITES 5F Dinner 17:30-21:00 (Last Order 19:30) *Our business hours are currently subject to change. |
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Winter cuisine from the head chef of Traditional Japanese: The culinary story of Kyoji Tsukahara
Ise lobster steamed in a ceramic pot
Spiny lobster is a symbol of success and longevity, and is an indispensable ingredient in celebratory occasions, especially in Traditional Japanese. From among various cooking methods, we have prepared a warm, steamed dish in a ceramic pot so that you can enjoy the original flavor of spiny lobster raised in the bountiful sea.
The spiny lobster is steamed in sake to bring out its flavor and aroma. After lightly cooking it until the flesh becomes plump, broth made from spiny chicken is poured in and it is steamed to perfection. You can enjoy the rich umami of the chicken broth, the elegant sweetness and texture of the spiny lobster, and the aroma of the sea from the lobster miso. The flavor of the lobster is transferred to the broth, resulting in a deeply flavorful taste that permeates your body. You can fully enjoy the charm of spiny lobster, an indispensable symbol of good fortune.
It can be enjoyed in the "Hamayu Kaiseki" (¥39,000) and "Takumi" (¥50,000) courses from December to February.
*Depending on stock availability, we may not be able to fulfill your order on certain days.
*Excluded dates: "Hamayu Kaiseki" 1/1-1/3, "Takumi" 12/31-1/3
Winter Miketsukuni Kaiseki Course
Enjoy the seasonal natural tiger pufferfish from Shima, the Anori pufferfish (a brand of fish from Mie Prefecture), and spiny lobster in this winter's Miketsukuni Kaiseki Course, where you can savor every last bit of each delicacy.
For the appetizer, we offer a simmered jelly made with gelatin extracted from pufferfish bones, allowing you to savor the umami of the broth. It is served with kelp-cured pufferfish. The pufferfish sashimi and spiny lobster have a sweetness that only fresh ingredients can provide, and the blanched pufferfish skin adds a nice accent. The creamy milt, which becomes larger and more flavorful in winter, is lightly grilled and served in a steamed egg custard. For the main course, we offer deep-fried pufferfish that lets you enjoy the deliciousness of the flesh. Spiny lobster is also added to the miso soup, which is made with carefully selected broth, to give it a rich flavor. For your meal, you can choose from nigiri sushi, spiny lobster tempura rice bowl, or Anori pufferfish rice porridge. Enjoy a luxurious time savoring a variety of flavors in the region where Anori pufferfish and spiny lobster are produced.
Winter Miketsukuni Kaiseki Course
December 1st (Thursday) - February 28th, 2023 (Tuesday)
¥32,200
*Exclusion dates 1/1-1/3
| Japanese Restaurant “Hamayu” | the BAY SUITES 4F Dinner 17:30-21:00 (Last Order 19:30) *Our business hours are currently subject to change. |
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Winter cuisine from the head chef of Teppanyaki restaurant "Yamabuki": A culinary story by Masaya Kurino
Lobster and sweet snapper baked risotto with truffles and a sake-based sauce.
By blending Japanese and Western elements, we have brought out the best of spiny lobster and sweet sea bream from Mie Prefecture.
The spiny lobster is steamed on a griddle until semi-raw, bringing out its plump texture and sweetness. There's a special technique to how the meat is removed. The shell is cracked with scissors, and the meat is removed without applying pressure, highlighting the thick, beautiful flesh and texture. The sweet sea bream is covered with kelp and steamed, starting with the skin side down. Once the sea bream has absorbed the aroma and umami of the kelp, the skin is carefully removed and it is grilled in a pine cone style. Enjoy the contrast in texture between the plump flesh of the sweet sea bream and the crispy skin. The sauce, made from fish bones, shallots, and mushrooms, finished with sake and fresh cream, has a sweetness and richness that is different from French white wine sauces. The spiny lobster head is added to the miso soup at the end of the course for a comforting taste. We deliver a variety of textures, aromas, and flavors born from the griddle.
You can enjoy it as part of our "Mie Prefecture Ingredients and Winter Delicacies Pair Dinner" from December to February.
For two people: ¥64,400
*From December 16th to December 25th, we will be offering a special Christmas couple's dinner.
| Teppanyaki Restaurant “Yamabuki” | the CLUB 2F (reservation required) Lunch 11:30-13:30 (Last orders 13:00/2 days before 20:00) Dinner 17:30-21:00 (last orders 19:30/until 20:00 the day before) *Our business hours are currently subject to change. |
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Shima Kanko Hotel quarterly magazine "Shima Time"
The Ise-Shima region changes its appearance little by little with the gentle passage of time, providing us with the flavors and colors of each season.
As the seasons change, Shima Kanko Hotel quarterly magazine, "Shima Time," introduces the four seasons of Ise-Shima through the local culture and abundant nature.
