Kumano chicken
The aesthetics of handicraft
From Shima Time, Fall 2023 edition
Kumano City in Mie Prefecture, home to the World Heritage site of the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage routes, is located in the Kii Mountains, where the Kumano Sea and a range of mountains meet.
Raised in this region blessed with abundant nature, Kumano Jidori chickens are a breed created through a "three-way crossbreeding" technique, where a male is born from a cross between the Yagito Shamo (a traditional natural monument of Mie Prefecture) and Ise Akadori chickens, and a female is a Nagoya Cochin chicken. Developed over 10 years starting in 1988 by the Mie Prefectural Livestock Research Institute, this chicken has also been certified as a Mie brand product.
The rich flavor unique to Kumano free-range chicken, nurtured by meticulous attention to detail.
There are eight chicken coops within the vast facility.
In Kiwa-cho, Kumano City, a mountain town located on the border with Nara and Wakayama prefectures, you'll find the Kumano City Hometown Promotion Corporation, which handles Kumano free-range chickens. Here, they produce, process, and sell local specialties, including Kumano free-range chickens and the Kumano-grown citrus fruit, "Niihime."
Mr. Kuramoto (right) and Mr. Wada (left) talking about Kumano Jidori chicken.
We spoke with Takashi Kuramoto, General Manager of the Processing and Production Division, and Shintaro Wada, who is in charge of sales to food and beverage establishments both within and outside the prefecture.
"The fattening period required to define a chicken as 'free-range' is 75 days or more, but Kumano free-range chickens are raised for 110 to 120 days. By raising them to a large size, with males weighing 3.4 kg and females 3.1 kg, the flavor becomes deeper," says Mr. Kuramoto.
Mr. Wada explained that crossbreeding three different breeds is unusual for free-range chickens, and that it brings out the unique characteristics of each breed, resulting in delicious Kumano free-range chicken. He also mentioned that the feed contains locally grown rice, spring water from the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage route which is rich in minerals, and dried powder of Shinhime rice, which improves the aroma of the meat and helps the chickens grow up healthy.
"The gamecock has a uniquely firm texture, Ise Akadori has high-quality fat, and Nagoya Cochin has a delicious flavor and fine texture. In fact, there's a difference in taste between males and females," says Mr. Wada.
Chef Tsukahara, the head of Traditional Japanese, examines the characteristics of free-range chicken from a perspective unique to Traditional Japanese.
Head chef Tsukahara of the Traditional Japanese department said, "Male chickens certainly have a unique texture. Free-range chickens become tough if overcooked, so cooking techniques are necessary to bring out the quality of the meat."
Executive Chef Higuchi said, "I always use male fish because I want to bring out their robust flavor."
Chef Kurino commented, "I was surprised by the richness of the flavor," and it seems everyone is expanding their culinary ideas about the possibilities of free-range chicken.
Raise them with love and care, without stressing them, so they can grow up freely.
Hamaguchi-san talking with Executive Chef Higuchi in front of the chicken coop.
"Normally, free-range chickens are raised in chicken coops with about 10 chickens per square meter, but here we limit it to 8 chickens per square meter to create a more spacious stocking density and increase their exercise. We also divide the chicken coop into two sections as the chickens grow, allowing them to grow up in a comfortable environment."
Three caretakers inspect the chicken coops every morning and evening. By keeping each coop to around 300 to 400 chickens, they can keep an eye on each individual chicken and constantly monitor their health.
"It may be an inefficient, old-fashioned method of raising chickens, but it's less stressful for them." Chicks, in particular, are delicate and easily frightened by even slight noises or footsteps, which can greatly affect their growth.
Male Kumano chickens are raised to be slightly larger than females.
"Kumano chickens have the blood of fighting cocks (Shamo) flowing through their veins, so some of the males have a fierce temperament. We enter the chicken coop quietly so as not to excite them," he says with a laugh.
In contrast, the female chickens are very curious and approach the keepers, and some gradually become tame. In the summer, when their appetite decreases, the keepers all consult with each other to adjust their feed, and even in winter, when it gets cold enough for snow to fall in the otherwise warm Kumano, everyone stays overnight to take care of the chickens.
Hamaguchi said, "Teamwork is essential for the chicken keepers. We continue our challenge to create the best-tasting free-range chicken in Japan, constantly coming up with ideas to provide the best possible environment for the chickens to grow."
The abundant natural environment and the strong desire of producers striving for excellence are what make the region's brand-name free-range chicken KAGAYAKI.
| Executive Chef Hiroe Higuchi | He was appointed Executive Chef of Shima Kanko Hotel in 2014 and was in charge of the working dinner at the Ise-Shima Summit in 2016. In 2017, he received the Bronze Award from the Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries' Chef Recognition Program, Cuisine Masters Award. In 2023, he was awarded the Chevalier of the French Order of Agricultural Merit. |
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| Traditional Japanese executive chef Kyoji Tsukahara | In 1987, he trained at the Japanese restaurants "Miyako" and "Uemachi" at the Miyako Hotel Osaka(now the Sheraton Miyako Hotel Osaka ). In 2016, he was involved in providing Traditional Japanese cuisine at the Ise-Shima Summit. In 2019, he was appointed Executive Chef of the Traditional Japanese at the Shima Kanko Hotel . |
| Lian Yamabuki Head Chef Masaya Kurino | In 2020, he became head chef of Shima Kanko Hotel Teppanyaki Yamabuki. Using his extensive on-site experience, he serves teppanyaki that allows you to enjoy conversation at the counter and a sense of realism. |
Autumn cuisine brought to you by Executive Chef Hiroe Higuchi's cooking story
Showcasing the appeal of Kumano free-range chicken in various forms
We have used various parts of Kumano Jidori chicken, raised with love in a blessed natural environment, to express its appeal.
The thigh meat of male Kumano Jidori chickens, which are raised on a lot of exercise and have a long fattening period, is confited in oil at a low temperature. The skin is crispy, and the meat is bursting with flavor and high-quality fat with every bite. Alternatively, minced thigh meat mixed with diced meat and grilled over Ise-Shima-Shima Binchotan charcoal with Matsusaka shiitake mushrooms adds a fragrant aroma, allowing you to enjoy the taste of the local chicken even more.
The marinated chicken breast is marinated in sake lees to bring out its tender and moist texture. Kumano Jidori chickens, raised on high-quality feed, have delicious offal as well; the liver is made into a pâté. It is combined with Ise hijiki seaweed for a rich flavor. Serve it on toasted baguette with wine. The gizzards and hearts are marinated and then confited to create a tender and rich flavor.
With heartfelt gratitude to the producers who tirelessly strive to pursue the highest quality.
| French Restaurant “La Mer” | the BAY SUITES 5F Dinner 17:30-21:00 (Last Order 19:30) *Our business hours are currently subject to change. |
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Shima Kanko Hotel quarterly magazine "Shima Time"
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