A revolution in the future of food.
Knowing history and envisioning the future
From Shima Time Summer 2023 issue
Executive Chef Higuchi and CEO Shohei Toyonaga holding tomatoes grown at Pomona Farm.
The Nyu district of Taki Town, Taki District, developed as an agricultural area during the Edo period when the Tachibai irrigation system, which is registered as a World Heritage Irrigation Structure, was constructed.
The place name Taki is said to originate from the old Japanese word "Taki," meaning a land where many kinds of food can be grown.
*Irrigation = The process of supplying water necessary for growing crops to farmland using human power.
There, I witnessed a sincere dedication to creating the future of agriculture through innovative ideas and various technologies, while consistently prioritizing "deliciousness" since its opening in 2017.
A new farming method that combines deliciousness and sustainability.
In the greenhouses on the farm, we produce vegetables using a technique called "Moisculture," which involves growing crops in a humid environment (moisture cultivation).
This technology was developed by CULTIVERA, an agritech venture company headed by Mr. Toyonaga. MoistureCulture is a cultivation method that focuses on the roots, which are how vegetables absorb nutrients. It involves controlling humidity in a space made of special fibers within an artificial culture sheet, and using the evaporated moisture to promote root growth.
Mr. Toyonaga explained, "By growing tomatoes with minimal water, their will to survive becomes stronger, bringing out the inherent vitality of the vegetable." He added that tomatoes with a strong desire for water have a higher amount of amino acids, which are umami components, and a higher sugar content, which leads to a richer flavor and stronger aroma.
When you see the fibers being cultivated, you can feel the strength emanating from the densely spread roots. "We are using technology to create the 'roots' of crops that farmers aspire to," says Toyonaga.
We asked Ms. Toyonaga why she practices Moist Culture.
"What we are working on is agriculture with a view to the future. Currently, climate change is causing water shortages and salinization around the world, reducing the amount of soil suitable for growing crops, and the costs of fertilizers and energy are rising. Furthermore, the number of people engaged in agriculture relative to the population continues to decline. As an idea to solve these problems, for example, if tomatoes are grown using moisture culture, only about 10% of the water required for soil cultivation is needed, there is no wastewater, and energy for heating and cooling can be supplied by solar power. In addition, the special fibers used in this technology can be used semi-permanently and do not require soil. By freeing us from securing water sources, energy sources, and soil, which were necessary for conventional agriculture, it becomes possible to produce agricultural products even in cities and areas unsuitable for agriculture," he said emphatically.
The power to pursue dreams supports agriculture
Microleaf grown in seawater
We spoke with Miru Nakayama of the Circular Agriculture Promotion Department, who is in charge of production.
"The microgreens we successfully cultivated, such as amaranth, originate from coastal areas. They retain DNA that allows them to adapt to saltwater, so we were able to cultivate them by taking advantage of that characteristic. However, plants like perilla, which originate from mountainous areas, lost their flavor and became bitter, making them unsuitable for production."
Since seawater cultivation has also been successful in the experimental stage for tomatoes, Toyonaga explained his future prospects, saying, "Tomatoes, which are the second most produced vegetable in the world, require a large amount of water to cultivate. If we can cultivate them in seawater, we can grow them at sea. We are not only adopting new farming methods, but we are also advancing research and production with young staff who have a vision for what lies beyond."
Nakayama, who studied agriculture at a local high school and joined Pomona Farm, says he finds his work as the person in charge of microleaf cultivation fulfilling. "My goal for the future is to make Taki famous for its food through circular agriculture using biomass and other methods. Each of the staff working here has their own dreams, but agriculture is a common theme for us all."
Head chef Tsukahara of the Traditional Japanese department said, "I've heard stories of people who have been producing wonderful local ingredients for many years but are giving up due to environmental changes and a lack of successors." He continued, "For example, by switching to moisture culture production for local specialty products, we are considering the possibility of stabilizing production volume and quality, leading to sustainable cultivation and employment. Currently, we are cultivating Ise potatoes with the local Oka High School, and we are also trying our hand at producing chili peppers that can be used as a substitute for marine resources such as seaweed to make vegetable broth."
Agriculture has an image of being hard work and difficult, but I believe that if we incorporate new perspectives and technologies and change our values, it can become a job that people want to do more."
Knowing the past, envisioning the future
We asked Mr. Toyonaga why he decided to pursue agriculture.
"I majored in archaeology at university and conducted research in Cambodia. While studying archaeological sites, I realized that one of the reasons for the decline of civilizations is food shortages caused by climate change. From there, human conflicts begin, and civilizations collapse. When I consider the present and future in the context of climate change, I came to the conclusion that what is needed now is sustainable agriculture on a global scale."
Toyonaga also shared his thoughts on the future. "Many of the granaries that supported ancient civilizations are located on what are called ley lines, on the 34°30′ north latitude line, and these are said to be places with long hours of sunshine and geographically rich conditions. In fact, Pomona Farm was also built on one of these ley lines. However, in our first year of operation, we were unable to harvest much due to flooding caused by heavy rains. I was shocked by this situation, as it is a place that should be suitable for agriculture, not a tropical region."
Executive Chef Higuchi said, "New ideas are born from learning history and facing the future. Until now, we have been particular about using local ingredients, but that alone is not sustainable. Learning about the future of agriculture was a great learning experience. It is a perspective that we chefs also need." Their unwavering concern for the planet and their passion for growing delicious vegetables are beginning to lead the future of food in a brighter direction.
| Executive Chef Hiroe Higuchi | He was appointed Executive Chef of Shima Kanko Hotel in 2014 and was in charge of the working dinner at the Ise-Shima Summit in 2016. In 2017, he received the Bronze Award from the Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries' Chef Recognition Program, Cuisine Masters Award. In 2023, he was awarded the Chevalier of the French Order of Agricultural Merit. |
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| Traditional Japanese executive chef Kyoji Tsukahara | In 1987, he trained at the Japanese restaurants "Miyako" and "Uemachi" at the Miyako Hotel Osaka(now the Sheraton Miyako Hotel Osaka ). In 2016, he was involved in providing Traditional Japanese cuisine at the Ise-Shima Summit. In 2019, he was appointed Executive Chef of the Traditional Japanese at the Shima Kanko Hotel . |
| Chef Sommelier Masahiko Sugihara | He has won numerous awards in various competitions, including being a semi-finalist in the 2011 All Japan Best Sommelier Competition. At the Ise-Shima Summit, he served as a member of the Japanese Wine Selection Committee and as the head of beverage service. He is a JSA Sommelier Excellence holder. |
| Lian Yamabuki Head Chef Masaya Kurino | In 2020, he became head chef of Shima Kanko Hotel Teppanyaki Yamabuki. Using his extensive on-site experience, he serves teppanyaki that allows you to enjoy conversation at the counter and a sense of realism. |
Summer dishes brought to you by Executive Chef Hiroe Higuchi's cooking story
Tomatoes, microgreens, Matsusaka beef
We combined the powerful individuality of ingredients such as tomatoes and microgreens grown at Pomona Farm, which is committed to agriculture with an eye on the future, Matsusaka beef raised in the same town of Taki, and wasabi from Odai Town, which is next to Taki.
A clear, rich tomato juice, condensed with the umami and sweetness of tomatoes, is made into a jelly and spread on the plate. On top of this are slices of Matsusaka beef infused with the aroma of Ise tea and a hemispherical jelly of Matsusaka beef consommé. Microgreens such as pea tendrils, grown in seawater and with a subtle salty flavor, are tossed in a dressing based on citrus fruits from Mie Prefecture. Sweet tomatoes are sliced raw and served with a cream made from fresh, fragrant wasabi from Miyagawa. These unique flavors are gently brought together by the tomato jelly. The dish expresses the cycle of nature on the plate, and embodies the wish for a rich environment to continue indefinitely.
We plan to offer it in our "Degustation" course from June to August.
*Depending on stock availability, we may not be able to fulfill your order on certain days.
| French Restaurant “La Mer” | the BAY SUITES 5F Dinner 17:30-21:00 (Last Order 19:30) *Our business hours are currently subject to change. |
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Summer cuisine brought to you by Traditional Japanese executive chef Kyoji Tsukahara's cooking story
Tomato Yoro Tofu
I heard that Pomona Farm is cultivating Ise yams with a local high school, and I was encouraged to see young people taking up agriculture. So, I combined tomatoes grown on the farm with Ise yams from Taki to make a summery Yoro tofu.
Yoro tofu is known as a nutritious dish, characterized by the smooth texture of nagaimo (Japanese yam) and its mild flavor. Ise yam is grated in a mortar and pestle and then solidified with agar. Tomatoes are added inside, and in addition to the beautiful red and white colors, the acidity and sweetness of the tomatoes are added to the elegant taste of Ise yam, resulting in a refreshing flavor.
The Yoro tofu is garnished with fresh tomatoes, diced tomato juice jelly, and microgreens, adding a touch of vibrancy. It's a simple yet impactful dish that highlights the flavors of the ingredients.
We plan to offer this at the "Umashikuni Kaiseki Course" event from June to August.
*Depending on stock availability, we may not be able to fulfill your order on certain days.
| Japanese Restaurant “Hamayu” | the BAY SUITES 4F Dinner 17:30-21:00 (Last Order 19:30) *Our business hours are currently subject to change. |
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