Ise cotton
Colorful lattice patterns on display inside the Usui Orimono store
Preserving the Ise Cotton that created an era
From Shima Time Summer 2023 issue
Preserving the Ise cotton that defined an era in modern times.
Ise cotton kimono
Ise Cotton, a traditional craft designated by Mie Prefecture, is characterized by its warm, soft feel and light texture. It is woven from threads made by twisting a single fiber called tanshi.
The cotton-like thread is so soft that it breaks when pulled, and special techniques are required to weave it. Ise cotton has a long history, dating back about 400 years as a bolt of cotton kimono fabric for everyday use. During the Edo period, the ban on luxury goods limited the clothing of farmers and townspeople to cotton and linen, which led to an increase in demand for bolts of cotton fabric. Ise, Mikawa, and Kawachi became the main production areas.
In particular, Ise Province (the entire Ise Plain) faces Ise Bay, and was therefore rich in sardines, which were used as fertilizer for cotton cultivation. In addition, even before cotton textiles were produced, there were weaving techniques such as Ise Tsumugi silk textiles and Tsumoji hemp textiles, and the production of Ise cotton progressed smoothly, becoming very popular mainly in Edo, Kyoto, and Osaka.
Ise cotton was apparently treated as the highest grade of cotton, as shown in the Wakan Sansai Zue, Japan's first illustrated encyclopedia, created during the Edo period, which states that "Ise cotton is 'jo' (top)."
We visited Usui Shokufu, the only company in the area around Senjuji Temple (Takada Honzan), head temple of the Shinshu Takada school of Buddhism, located in Isshinden-cho, Tsu City, that has the technique of weaving Ise cotton and continues to do so today.
The unique texture is a feel that Japanese people prefer.
Mr. Usui talks about the appeal of Ise cotton
Usui Orimono mainly produces bolts of cotton kimono fabric, which are shipped to Kyoto kimono shops and apparel brands. They also sell a variety of goods, such as original clothing and bags made from Ise cotton. President Usui Naruo showed us around the workshop. He told us that there are many different patterns that can be created in the process of weaving the warp threads (vertical threads) to be attached to the loom. "In addition to the traditional checkered patterns that are representative of Ise cotton, we are also currently evolving them through trial and error. Patterns that have remained for a long time are popular. However, we don't just preserve tradition, we are always incorporating new ideas."
A loom still in use today, dating back to the Meiji period
In the next room, 40 looms are working, making rhythmic noises. It takes about a day to weave one bolt of patterned cloth, says Usui. "When I was a child, about 10 craftsmen lived and worked in the workshop. The looms were made by Toyota Automatic Loom Works, and they have all been in use since the Meiji period." He also told us about local textiles.
"I heard that during the Meiji period, there were about 100 weaving and dyeing shops in this area. Tsu was also unusual in that it was home to five large spinning companies. The textile industry was so thriving that there was a labor shortage and people had to be hired from outside the city and prefecture."
However, during the Second World War, most of Tsu city was burned down in air raids, and the demand for rolls of kimono fabric decreased due to the decline of kimono culture. Despite this, Usui Orimono continued to produce Ise cotton.
It is said that they continue to be the only Ise cotton weaving company today, preserving traditional techniques.
Usui continues.
"Normal cotton fabrics are made using twisted yarn made by tightly twisting several threads together, which gives the fabric a tight weave and makes it stiff and prone to shrinking when washed. However, Ise cotton uses single threads that are loosely twisted, which gives it a soft finish. When washed, the threads return to their original shape, making it less likely to shrink. The more you use it, the more character it develops, and you can use it for a long time."
Ise cotton, which has excellent breathability and moisture retention and has been a part of the daily lives of Japanese people, is filled with the wisdom of our ancestors.
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