Sturgeon
Gourmet food grown in pure streams
From Shima Time Winter 2023 issue
Odai Town, located in the Kii Mountains, is a town rich in nature, with the Miyagawa River, a clear river that has been ranked number one for six consecutive years since 2006 in the Ministry of Land, Infrastructure, Transport and Tourism's water quality survey of first-class rivers, running through the mountains. The entire town is designated as a UNESCO Ecopark. Tea, yuzu, and in recent years, perilla production is also thriving.
In the Koutaki district, where the Hajikami River, the source of the Miyagawa River, flows, there is a business called Sturgeon Lohas, run by Ocean Trust, which farms sturgeon and grows watercress hydroponically using unique technology that applies a system called aquaponics, which is environmentally friendly.
Aquaculture facility in a naturally rich area
In the Koutaki district, where the Hajikami River, the source of the Miyagawa River, flows, there is a business called Sturgeon Lohas, run by Ocean Trust, which farms sturgeon and grows watercress hydroponically using unique technology that applies a system called aquaponics, which is environmentally friendly.
Overseas, it is called "sturgeon" and is a luxury fish praised as a royal fish.It is highly regarded as a fish, and its sturgeon eggs, caviar, are also highly valued.In French cuisine, sturgeon is treated as a gourmet delicacy.
Our commitment to high-quality water, which we discovered miraculously.
Sturgeon growing in clear water
Executive Chef Higuchi, Executive Chef Traditional Japanese, and Chef Sommelier Sugihara visited the sturgeon farming facility. Inside the light-controlled room are eight tanks divided into individual tanks for different growth patterns.
We spoke with the company's representative, Ryo Tsuji.
"Sturgeon is a freshwater fish that is farmed around the world, and there are about 28 species of it. This farm raises a species called 'Vester,' which is a descendant of the beluga whale, which produces the highest quality caviar."
A six-month-old baby Sturgeon
They purchase young fish that are about 10cm long, and after about three years the males grow to 3kg, after which they are shipped. After 7 to 10 years the females are shipped as caviar and meat. Six months before shipping, they are fed a diet containing perilla residue from Odaicho, which helps to develop a smooth fat texture, and they are particular about the taste.
In fact, Mr. Tsuji's previous job was as an engineer at a company that developed the world's first compound feed for farmed tuna. He also had a career that involved him in the development of Ise tuna. When asked about the secret to its deliciousness, Mr. Tsuji said, "The taste depends on the techniques used to maintain freshness, such as raising the fish daily without stressing them, and nerve-killing and bleeding them before shipping. It's the same as with fish in the sea."
Tsukahara , Traditional Japanese Executive Chef, nodded as he listened to the story and said, "The water in the tanks is clear and odorless. They're creating an environment as close to nature as possible and farming the fish on land."
The source of the water is the Hajikami River
The tank uses the water source of the Hajikami River. As there are no man-made objects upstream, the water quality is good, and the water is filtered to remove impurities as small as 70 microns, which are invisible to the naked eye, before being transported to the Sturgeon tank.
Mr. Tsuji explained that this location was chosen for the fish farm, not only because of the good water quality, but also for other reasons.
"Sturgeon farming requires optimal conditions such as pH and minerals. I spent about six months researching to find a river with the right water quality. I consider it a miracle that I found the water of the Hajime River in my hometown of Mie."
The appeal of sturgeon as a food ingredient
Executive Chef Higuchi also said, "We have sourced sturgeon from another region before. It is certainly a delicious fish, with a texture and flavor similar to that of pufferfish or grouper."
"Sturgeons are still not well known in Japan. I would like to raise them in good quality water and raise their reputation as a fish to eat," says Tsuji.
Everyone tried Sturgeon's homemade smoked food, which is said to be delicious even when raw.
Chef sommelier Sugihara said, "It has no unpleasant odor and has a good texture. It would go well with champagne or a dry white wine with a refreshing acidity."
A challenge to be kind to the environment and considerate of the local community
Watercress grown using aquaponics methods
Watercress is grown hydroponically in a greenhouse adjacent to the facility where the aquaculture tanks are lined up.
The water used in the sturgeon's tank is turned into nutrients by bacteria that break down the waste, and is used as fertilizer for the watercress.
"Aquaponics," which combines aquaculture and agriculture in this way, is becoming more common around the world from the perspective of the SDGs. Tsuji also values environmental considerations, such as filtering impurities from water used at the facility and returning it to the river.
Finally, we asked Mr. Tsuji about his outlook.
"The locals humorously call the road in front of the caviar farm 'Caviar Road.' My goal is to raise awareness of the business so that one day many people will call it that. I also hope that the industry will lead to job creation in Odai Town, which cooperated in starting the business."
From left: Mr. Tsuji, Executive Chef Higuchi, Executive Chef Tsukahara of Japanese Traditional Japanese, and Chef Sommelier Sugihara.
Executive Chef Higuchi said, "What's wonderful is that this initiative is not only based on a passion for sturgeon as an ingredient, but also on kindness to nature and gratitude to the local community. I can see the future potential of sturgeon as an ingredient."
Winter cuisine brought to you by Executive Chef Hiroe Higuchi's cooking story
Sturgeon comes in two flavours.
We have prepared two different cooking methods so that you can enjoy the delicious, elegant flavor of the sturgeon meat that Mr. Tsuji has carefully grown.
The clear taste of the raw sturgeon meat is not only the result of its natural deliciousness, but also of the high quality of the water and the attention to detail in the feed, which is the result of Mr. Tsuji's techniques. Please enjoy the fish with wasabi grown in the clear waters of the Miyagawa River and raw watercress grown using aquaponics, along with olive oil.
The bouillon made from the bones and skin of oven-roasted sturgeons has a mellow flavor as the gelatin from the cartilage and skin dissolves into the soup. When the hot soup is poured over the sturgeon, it cooks just right, enhancing the flavor and adding texture.
I encountered new ingredients produced in Mie Prefecture and felt the passion of those involved in production and the potential of nature.
*The availability period may change depending on stock availability.
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