Koji and miso beloved by the local community
The power of tradition
From Shima Time, Fall 2024 edition
Minamiise Town in Watarai District is located adjacent to the west of Shima City.
A picturesque ria coastline stretches out, dotted with 38 settlements, including fishing villages and rural mountain villages.
Executive Chef Higuchi, Japanese Cuisine Executive Chef Traditional Japanese, and Chef Kurino visited Shoshita Kojiya, a family business that has been cultivating rice and producing rice koji and miso for generations using the blessed water that flows from the mountains to the valleys.
We will share our interactions with young farmers who are carrying on the tradition of making koji, the key ingredient in fermented foods such as miso, which is an integral part of Japanese food culture, and who are positively enjoying both their work and their lives in harmony with nature.
We are committed to making koji from rice, and rice from seed.
Shoshita-san talks about rice farming.
As you emerge from the village's narrow paths and arrive at the rice fields nestled in a small valley between the mountains, a cool breeze blows in from the mountains.
The person who guided us that day was Tadashi Shoka, the fifth-generation owner of Shoka Kojiya.
At Shoshita Kojiya, they produce only Koshihikari rice, about 8 tons per year. "It's cold at night and hot during the day. The temperature difference here and the clayey soil make for sweet and sticky rice," says Mr. Shoshita.
The water from the mountains is refreshingly cold, even during the day.
Chef Higuchi touched the water flowing vigorously through the canal and remarked, "The water is colder than the air temperature. This area has all the right climate and soil conditions for growing good rice."
Upstream of the waterway, there are no fields or man-made structures, and the rice is grown using the pure water of the Oshibuchi River, which is drawn from the mountains.
"When I was little, I would go with my grandmother to work on the farm, catch insects in the rice paddies, listen to the calls of ducks and egrets, and at night gaze at the fireflies that spread across the fields. As the number of rice paddies decreases, the amount of water drawn from the rivers decreases, and the number of living creatures also declines. Increasing the cultivated land will also help restore the rich natural environment that originally existed. The rice grown in the paddies is also processed into koji, so nothing goes to waste."
Furthermore, Shoshita Kojiya has a commitment to growing its own rice from seed, rather than purchasing rice seedlings.
"We've been collecting our own seeds, growing them into seedlings, and planting them ourselves since ancient times. We're carrying on the traditions that our grandmother and ancestors have cherished for generations."
Homemade amazake
Mrs. Chigusa and Head Chef Higuchi are having a lively conversation about koji.
When we returned from the rice fields, Mrs. Shoshita had prepared some cold amazake (sweet rice drink) for us. Everyone was soothed by the natural sweetness of the drink, which contained no added sugar.
Chef Kurino commented, "It has a subtly sweet and refreshing taste. Perhaps it's the sweetness of the rice and koji, along with the deliciousness of the water. It has a clear flavor."
We will continue to preserve the flavors that originate in this region.
Koji production begins in October, using rice harvested in September. After milling and washing, the rice is soaked, drained, and steamed for about 30 minutes. The steamed rice is then cooled to body temperature, and the starter culture is sprinkled evenly over it. After that, it is placed in a room maintained at 30 degrees Celsius and 80-90% humidity.
After the rice has been left overnight, the grains are loosened by hand. Next, it is transferred to a container called a koji lid, covered with a mat woven from rice straw, and allowed to grow to produce koji. When this is dried, it becomes "dried rice koji."
Koji arranged on a lidded cover
"We have to check the temperature and humidity in the room and the fermentation process twice a day, which is essential. At times we brew as much as 250 kilograms at once, but since it's a family business, we're sometimes short-handed and it's tough," says Shoshita.
Apparently, koji production takes place throughout the year, except during the summer months when the outside temperature exceeds 30 degrees Celsius.
Executive Chef Higuchi and Executive Chef Tsukahara of Traditional Japanese observe the miso-making process.
Soybean miso is made from soybeans, soybean koji, salt, and water, but Shoshita Kojiya apparently adds rice koji to bring out the sweetness and umami.
"To encourage the miso's natural fermentation, it's stirred about once a week and aged for a year. It has a rich flavor, with a strong bean taste and a salty taste, so many locals say, 'Miso soup has to taste like this.' Some parents even send this miso to their daughters who have married and moved out of town."
The Shoshita family also enjoys homemade miso every day. "Miso is a healthy food that contains antioxidants, amino acids, and enzymes. I try to eat miso soup at least once a day."
The secret to succession is enjoying everyday life.
All-purpose koji developed by Shoshita Kojiya
Koji can be used in a variety of dishes.
At Shoshita Kojiya, the young fifth-generation couple are also working to incorporate koji into modern food culture with their own unique ideas.
Ms. Chigusa, Mr. Shoshita's wife, has been running cooking classes using koji for the past two years, teaching local residents various ways to enjoy koji.
Chigusa's koji recipes
After sampling the "all-purpose koji" developed by Mr. and Mrs. Shoshita, Traditional Japanese head chef Tsukahara commented, "I'd like to use this flavor in combination with rice and dashi (broth)." Chef Kurino responded, "It has a deep umami flavor, so if you use it like meat miso, it would go well with the sweetness of the fat in Matsusaka beef," and the conversation became lively.
Finally, we asked Mr. Shoshita about his vision for the future as a farmer and koji maker.
I want to enjoy my work while conveying the appeal of koji.
"At my son's elementary school, the students shared their dreams. Among the dreams of becoming a soccer player and a pastry chef, there was my son's handwriting, boldly written, 'farmer.' When I asked him why, he said it was because I seem to enjoy my work."
Looking back, I naturally learned the ropes by helping my grandmother, who seemed to enjoy her work. I want to pass on the appeal of koji making, a family business that has been handed down through generations, to the next generation as well."
| Executive Chef Hiroe Higuchi | He was appointed Executive Chef of Shima Kanko Hotel in 2014 and was in charge of the working dinner at the Ise-Shima Summit in 2016. In 2017, he received the Bronze Award from the Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries' Chef Recognition Program, Cuisine Masters Award. In 2023, he was awarded the Chevalier of the French Order of Agricultural Merit. |
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| Traditional Japanese executive chef Kyoji Tsukahara | In 1987, he trained at the Japanese restaurants "Miyako" and "Uemachi" at the Miyako Hotel Osaka(now the Sheraton Miyako Hotel Osaka ). In 2016, he was involved in providing Traditional Japanese cuisine at the Ise-Shima Summit. In 2019, he was appointed Executive Chef of the Traditional Japanese at the Shima Kanko Hotel . |
| Lian Yamabuki Head Chef Masaya Kurino | In 2020, he became head chef of Shima Kanko Hotel Teppanyaki Yamabuki. Using his extensive on-site experience, he serves teppanyaki that allows you to enjoy conversation at the counter and a sense of realism. |
Autumn cuisine brought to you by Executive Chef Hiroe Higuchi's cooking story
Salt-fermented venison marinated in koji, with miso and Setoka pepper condiments.
This dish uses koji and miso from Shoshita Kojiya, made using traditional methods, and is perfectly paired with wild game from Ise-Shima Shima.
The thigh meat of venison raised in the mountains of Ise-Shima, where food is abundant, is marinated in salt koji and then cooked at a low temperature to achieve a moist texture. Enjoy this flavorful venison in two different ways.
The dish is served with a condiment made from a blend of soybean and rice miso from Shoshita Kojiya, flavored with aromatic vegetables, citrus peel, and Setoka pepper from Owase. The complex and delicate flavors of the miso (soybean flavor), the subtle sweetness of the rice koji, and the spiciness of the Setoka pepper bring out the deliciousness of the meat. In addition, as venison is often served with fruit sauces in French cuisine, we also serve it with a sweet and fruity plum sauce made from venison jus, pickled plums from Matsumoto Farm in Mihama Town, and plum puree. Both are excellent supporting actors that enhance the flavor of the venison.
It will be offered as part of our "Degustation Course" from October to November.
*Availability may vary depending on the menu.
| French Restaurant “La Mer” | the BAY SUITES 5F Dinner 17:30-21:00 (Last Order 19:30) |
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Summer cuisine brought to you by Traditional Japanese executive chef Kyoji Tsukahara's cooking story
Grilled skewers with koji paste, and miso soup made with rice miso.
I was deeply impressed by the opportunity to see the pure water, the rice paddies where the rice is grown, and the source of the deliciousness of the koji at Shoshita Kojiya. Both koji and miso are ingredients that pair well with rice. I wanted to highlight the natural flavors of the ingredients and let people enjoy them in their purest form.
Koji Dengaku-yaki consists of white rice topped with all-purpose koji, then combined with blanched spiny lobster and quail eggs. The all-purpose koji, infused with soy sauce and vegetables, has a rich and sweet flavor, and the creaminess of the egg and the texture of the raw spiny lobster envelop the rice in their respective flavors. A little ingenuity is used to create a change in taste as you eat.
Adding broth makes it milder.
This is Ise-Shima style seafood chazuke (rice with broth) made with warm broth from bonito flakes from Shima and spiny lobster. Enjoy the fragrant aroma of the spiny lobster broth and the spiny lobster meat that has been cooked to perfection in the broth. We also serve it with a miso soup made with a blend of soybean miso and rice miso from Shoshita Kojiya, reflecting on the history of this dish that has been loved by the local people.
We plan to offer this at the "Autumn Miketsukuni Kaiseki Course" from September to November.
*Availability may vary depending on stock levels.
Autumn Miketsukuni Kaiseki Course
This autumn's Miketsukuni Kaiseki Course features seasonal ingredients, including spiny lobster, which is in season now, and Ise mackerel, all prepared with koji from Shoshita Kojiya.
The earthenware pot soup, evoking the feeling of the harvest season, includes fatty conger eel and matsutake mushrooms that are at their peak in autumn, as well as thick, flavorful shiitake mushrooms from Matsusaka. The golden simmered Ise sea bream is served with daikon radish adorned with chrysanthemum-shaped cuts. The seafood sashimi, centered around whole Ise lobster with its elegant sweetness, is complemented by the fragrant grilled Ise lobster with sea urchin and grilled Iga beef with koji. Enjoy the flavorful new soba noodles with sticky and flavorful Ise yam grated yam and minced shrimp.
The seasonal dish is one of the following: a small hot pot of Matsusaka beef with mushrooms such as shiitake mushrooms, steamed abalone and mushroom tempura, or seared spiny lobster. For the main course, you can choose from nigiri sushi with spiny lobster and other seafood, spiny lobster rice with koji dengaku (fermented rice with spiny lobster broth), or warm sushi of Japanese Black beef and Kumano chicken.
Autumn Miketsukuni Kaiseki Course
September 1st (Sunday) - November 30th (Saturday)
¥35,000 *Menu items change monthly.
| Japanese Restaurant “Hamayu” | the BAY SUITES 4F Dinner 17:30-21:00 (Last Order 19:30) Lunch 11:30-13:30 (LO 13:00) *Lunch is available for parties of four or more. Reservations must be made one week in advance. |
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Autumn dishes brought to you by Teppanyaki "Yamabuki" chef Masaya Kurino's cooking story
Matsusaka beef, rice koji, grilled on a magnolia leaf.
As autumn deepens, enjoy teppanyaki dishes featuring Shoshita Kojiya's all-purpose koji. This dish showcases Matsusaka beef prepared in a style reminiscent of Hoba-yaki (grilled on a magnolia leaf).
The aroma of magnolia leaves stimulates the appetite.
Place a magnolia leaf on a heated griddle, and spread a paste made from minced Matsusaka beef, all-purpose koji, sansho pepper, and ginger on top. Layer lightly simmered shiitake mushrooms in a sukiyaki-style broth, and Matsusaka beef sirloin that has been dipped in the broth and quickly grilled on the griddle, then garnish with white leeks and maple leaf tempura.
Enjoy with sweet Matsusaka beef sirloin
On the hot plate, you can enjoy the rich flavor of thick shiitake mushrooms, the melt-in-your-mouth texture of Matsusaka beef, and the fragrant koji paste that becomes even more aromatic when heated. In addition to the deliciousness of each ingredient, the subtle aroma of magnolia leaves stimulates the appetite. Furthermore, by using koji instead of miso, the salt content is reduced while adding depth and umami, creating a flavor that evokes the feeling of autumn.
You can enjoy it as part of our "Autumn Delights Couple's Dinner" from September to November.
¥70,000 for two people
| Teppanyaki Restaurant “Yamabuki” | the CLUB 2F (reservation required) Lunch (Saturdays and Sundays only) 11:30-13:30 (last orders 13:00) Dinner 17:30-21:00 (last orders 19:30/until 20:00 the day before) *Closed on Wednesdays. *Lunch is available for 4 or more people. Reservations must be made at least one week in advance. |
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Shima Kanko Hotel quarterly magazine "Shima Time"
The Ise-Shima region changes its appearance little by little with the gentle passage of time, providing us with the flavors and colors of each season.
As the seasons change, Shima Kanko Hotel quarterly magazine, "Shima Time," introduces the four seasons of Ise-Shima through the local culture and abundant nature.
