Traditional Nanko plums made with care and attention to detail
Beyond the training
From Shima Time, Summer 2024 issue
Kishu, one of Japan's leading plum-producing regions, enjoys a warm climate influenced by the Kuroshio Current and long hours of sunshine, making it a region where plum cultivation has flourished since ancient times.
Nanko plums are famous for being the highest quality variety. The unripe Nanko plums are used to make plum wine and plum syrup, while the ripe plums are mainly processed into pickled plums. They are characterized by their soft flesh and fruity acidity and aroma.
The Higashi-Kishu region of Mie Prefecture, which borders Wakayama Prefecture, receives a large amount of rainfall compared to the rest of Japan, resulting in Nanko plums grown in this area with thin, soft skins. In Mihama Town, in the southern part of Mie Prefecture, about 25 years ago, four plum farmers from Wakayama Prefecture cleared the land and cultivated plum orchards, and they continue to do so today.
Among them, Executive Chef Higuchi and Executive Chef Traditional Japanese of Japanese Cuisine visited Matsumoto Farm, which is committed to traditional handcrafted methods. There, they found farmers who are expanding the possibilities of local agriculture and working in a way that is true to themselves.
How to grow Nanko plums, focusing on perfect ripeness.
Matsumoto Farm operates three plum orchards in and around Mihama Town, cultivating approximately 200 tons of Nanko plums annually from about 2,000 trees on a total area of about 10 hectares.
Upon arriving at the plum orchard surrounded by mountains, we saw beautiful plum blossoms budding on the trees.
"The parts that get sunlight turn red," explained Kiyoshi Matsumoto, the fifth-generation owner. We started by asking him about the cultivation methods.
Plum trees, including Nanko plums, have a characteristic called "self-incompatibility," meaning they cannot be pollinated by pollen from the same variety. Therefore, multiple varieties of plum trees are planted in the orchards. Pollination is carried out in January or February on windless days when the temperature is around 13 degrees Celsius, by releasing honeybees borrowed from a local beekeeping farm into the fields.
Between leaf fall and fruiting, excess branches are pruned to concentrate nutrients into the fruit. "There's no set pattern for pruning because each tree has different characteristics such as the direction of sunlight, its growth rate, and size."
Also, since plum trees produce many branches, we eventually cut off 80-90% of them.
This is a job that requires three years of experience as a craftsman.
The plums are carefully picked by hand and pickled in salt on the same day. It's hard work, but it's important to harvest the fully ripened plums from all three fields at the same time.
It coincides with the rainy season, so we can't rest even when it rains; it's truly a battle with the plums. Also, we don't use herbicides in our fields, and we mow the weeds, practicing grass cultivation that takes into consideration the nutrients the trees absorb from the soil and the fallen fruit."
Made using traditional methods, each piece is carefully crafted.
Processing plant where preparations for salting and sun-drying are carried out.
Next, we went to the processing plant where the pickling and sorting processes are carried out. Plump, yellow Nanko plums are being moved one after another from the salting tanks into large wooden containers called "kizara" for sun-drying.
Executive Chef Higuchi commented, "Even when pickled in salt, the fully ripened plums retain their wonderful aroma. Because they are produced at different times of the year, consumers can reliably purchase high-quality pickled plums, which is a great benefit to them."
Chef Tsukahara, head of Traditional Japanese, and Chef Higuchi observe the sun-drying process.
The sun-drying process involves drying approximately 2,000 kg of plums at a time over three days. Each plum is turned over by hand while checking its dryness, and if it rains during this time, a plastic sheet is used to cover it, making it a painstaking process.
"These days, many places dry their umeboshi in greenhouses and use easy-to-clean plastic sieves. We, however, manufacture ours using traditional methods, such as sun-drying and using wooden containers that retain moisture well and prevent the umeboshi from spoiling even after several days of storage. The reason for this is that we are particular about achieving a texture where the skin can be easily bitten through without much effort, and the flesh has the ideal softness."
The process of sorting the dried plums one by one.
After the plums have finished drying in the sun, they are sorted into seven grades, with each one being checked by hand for blemishes, size, and softness.
Even a slight scratch will lower its rank.
Even plums that have been perfectly bred to the highest A-grade will be demoted if they have three or more tiny blemishes of less than 1 mm on the skin.
Pickled plums packed in barrels
The sorted plums are carefully packed into barrels and aged in a cellar for 3 to 12 months to create "Shiroboshi," an additive-free pickled plum with only salt and plums as ingredients and a salt concentration of 20%.
"To achieve the traditional taste of Kishu Nanko plums, automation is not possible. It's time-consuming, but we want to continue to stick to the manual process," says Matsumoto.
Head chef Tsukahara of the Traditional Japanese department said, "There are secrets to the deliciousness that you can only understand by coming to the source. I can relate to the idea of not sparing any effort or time in Traditional Japanese. It's also a pleasure to think about what kind of dishes to make with the Nanko plums that have been carefully cultivated in the production area."
A new initiative to preserve tradition for the future.
"I used to think that harvesting and other tasks were naturally difficult, but once I actually became a farmer, I learned that there were many other hardships as well. When I first started farming, I sold all the harvested plums to processing companies, so the profits were small, and I couldn't make a living from farming alone. So, from 2010, I decided to handle processing and sales myself."
To move towards sixth-sector industrialization, encompassing production, processing, and sales, we started by converting a storage shed into a food processing room.
Product lineup developed by Mr. Matsumoto
In addition to traditional white-dried fish, they have developed products that meet modern needs, such as honey-flavored, bonito-flavored, and fruit-flavored varieties with less salt. They even obtained a salt coordinator certification to further their knowledge of salt.
Initially, they struggled with sales activities, but an opportunity arose when they started setting up stalls at markets and other events. As they directly communicated their commitment to quality and excellence to customers, they gradually gained more repeat customers, caught the eye of buyers at retail stores, and began selling their products. Now, they set up stalls in various locations, including Fukuoka and Tokyo, 70 days a year, and run the business with 20 employees, mainly young people.
It seems that Mr. Matsumoto is also working on utilizing abandoned farmland.
"In Mihama Town, the amount of abandoned farmland is increasing. Plum trees start to bear less fruit after about 35 years, so last year we purchased abandoned farmland and planted new plum trees. They will grow large enough to produce fruit in about 10 years, so we are aiming for sustainable cultivation of Nanko plums by replacing trees in old fields and utilizing new abandoned farmland."
Executive Chef Higuchi commented, "They are connecting local traditions to the future with new sales methods and free-thinking ideas. I felt a sense of dedication and passion that goes beyond just deliciousness."
| Executive Chef Hiroe Higuchi | He was appointed Executive Chef of Shima Kanko Hotel in 2014 and was in charge of the working dinner at the Ise-Shima Summit in 2016. In 2017, he received the Bronze Award from the Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries' Chef Recognition Program, Cuisine Masters Award. In 2023, he was awarded the Chevalier of the French Order of Agricultural Merit. |
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| Traditional Japanese executive chef Kyoji Tsukahara | In 1987, he trained at the Japanese restaurants "Miyako" and "Uemachi" at the Miyako Hotel Osaka(now the Sheraton Miyako Hotel Osaka ). In 2016, he was involved in providing Traditional Japanese cuisine at the Ise-Shima Summit. In 2019, he was appointed Executive Chef of the Traditional Japanese at the Shima Kanko Hotel . |
Summer dishes brought to you by Executive Chef Hiroe Higuchi's cooking story
Seafood and seasonal vegetables, and pickled plums in various forms.
This dish showcases the charm of Nanko plums, which are carefully made entirely by hand, highlighting their flavor and aroma.
The rich aroma and elegant taste of Nanko plums, which are ripened on the tree, are captured in a jelly made with sake, pickled plums, kelp, and bonito broth, an adaptation of "irizake," a traditional Japanese seasoning. The icy granita is made by infusing white wine with the aroma of plums and adding sugar, creating a Western-style version of irizake.
The gentle acidity and umami enhance the flavor of the ingredients, while the refreshing plum aroma and pale pink color add a touch of elegance.
The blanched spiny sea bream is wrapped around the pulp of Nanko plums, which have a soft texture and rich flavor. The refreshing acidity complements the white fish, bringing out its best taste. The kuruma prawns, which are in season during the summer, are lightly boiled to bring out their sweetness.
The rich flavor of Ureshino soybean puree and blanched asparagus harmonize beautifully with the jelly and granita, creating a truly memorable taste.
| French Restaurant “La Mer” | the BAY SUITES 5F Dinner 17:30-21:00 (Last Order 19:30) |
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Summer cuisine brought to you by Traditional Japanese executive chef Kyoji Tsukahara's cooking story
Sushi with Nanko plums and summer vegetables
These two dishes combine various ingredients that are in season during the summer with the refreshing tartness and sweetness of pickled plums.
The vinegared rice for the sushi is mixed with two types of pickled plum paste: a strongly acidic shiso flavor and a mildly sweet fruit flavor, bringing out the deliciousness of the rice. In addition, instead of soy sauce, it is served with "irizake," which allows you to taste the original flavor of the ingredients. Irizake is a seasoning that was used in the Edo period until soy sauce became widespread, and is made by boiling sake, pickled plums, kelp, bonito flakes, and roasted rice. The eel meat, which has been cured with kelp to enhance its umami, is shaped into a stick, and when enjoyed with irizake, the sweetness of the eel spreads in your mouth.
The vegetable sushi features lightly boiled asparagus, pickled young ginger, and lightly pickled eggplant, offering a refreshing taste of seasonal ingredients. The thin rolls are filled with Ise tuna and squid, wrapped with pickled plum paste.
Pike conger eel prepared in a clear water style, coated in kudzu starch.
This soup, in which pickled plums are quickly simmered in bonito broth to remove the saltiness and enhance their umami, is paired with blanched conger eel to create an elegant flavor, and the plums truly stand out in this dish.
*Depending on stock availability, we may not be able to fulfill your order on certain days.
| Japanese Restaurant “Hamayu” | the BAY SUITES 4F Dinner 17:30-21:00 (Last Order 19:30) Lunch 11:30-13:30 (LO 13:00) *Lunch is available for parties of four or more. Reservations must be made one week in advance. |
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